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Early History.
No records have been discovered about the pre-medieval history of Fetternear. However since the archaeological excavations started in 1995, traces have been discovered of earlier occupations of the site. This is not altogether surprising if one remembers that it is a sheltered, well-drained site lying conveniently close to the river Don.
A relatively small (but nonetheless significant) number of flint tools of late Mesolithic dates (8000 to 2700 BC) have been recovered. These are of sufficient number to suggest that the site was occupied at that time.
During the course of the geophysical survey that the archaeological team conducted of the site and its immediate surroundings, a number of circular features were detected lying near the burn. It seems possible that some of these may be the remains of prehistoric roundhouses.
Excavations in 2001 in the field to the North of the ruins uncovered traces of Bronze Age workings. Discoveries included postholes, a hearth with calcinated bones, and some sherds of pottery. Preliminary dating of these gave a date of 1600 to 1800 BC.
A sketch presumed to have been prepared at the time of the building of the 1842 wing gave details of a large ditch which had been encountered when the 1818 wing was built. It ran centrally beneath it. Archaeological excavations in 2000 revealed that this ditch ran due east and appeared to curve round under the East wing of the ruins. Excavations in 2002 revealed traces of it to the East of the ruins, with part of the walls constructed in it. Clearly this ditch predates the palace and could well have been a motte and bailey type of fortification.
The Bishops of Aberdeen.
The Barony of Fetternear belonged to the See of Aberdeen. It appears that in about 1109 a collegiate church was erected at Fetternear, with a foundation for a warder or dean, and canons. This is most probably the church of St Ninian, lying about a mile from the ruins.
Pope Adrian IV, by a bull dated 10th August 1157, confirmed to Edward, Bishop of Aberdeen, all the lands, churches, and others, granted to the Cathedral Church of Aberdeen by the kings of Scotland. Amongst the lands and churches specified in the bull, we find the villa of Fethernear, and the church with its pertinents.
King Malcolm IV, by a charter dated 20th August 1163 at Stirling, the eleventh year of his reign, granted and confirmed to the Blessed Virgin Mary, to St. Machar, and to Matthew Kininnmont, Bishop of Aberdeen, numerous lands, places, churches, tithes, and others. Amongst them was the church of Fetternear, with the lands of the same, and pertinents.
King Alexander II, by a charter dated 18th September 1242 at Kinfawnys, granted to Ralph de Lambley, eighth Bishop of Aberdeen, the privilege of a free forest in the lands of Brass and Fetternear, so that no one could cut wood or hunt there without the bishop's permission, under a penalty of a fine of £10.
Early records indicate that a residence was built by Bishop Peter de Ramsay in 1256, and further records show that the house was extended in 1329 and used as a summer residence by Bishop Alexander Kinninmonth.
Alexander Kinninmonth I (Bishop of Aberdeen 1329 - c.1343) had been a papal chaplain and lawyer with considerable experience of the workings of the curia as auditor of causes and in other ways. He succeeded William of Eaglesham first of all as parson of Kinkell (autumn 1320) and then as archdeacon of Lothian (1323). Such rapid promotion points to outstanding ability and royal favour, and indeed Kinninmonth was actually chosen to succeed as bishop of St Andrews on Lamberton's death in 1328, only to find himself thwarted by a fellow-clerk of the late bishop's familia, Mr James Ben, who had the advantage of being at the papal curia when news of the vacancy arrived. Nevertheless, Pope John almost immediately compensated Kinninmonth with the vacant see of Aberdeen, without the formality of an election.
He was certainly one of the small party that carried the Letter of the Community of the Realm of Scotland to the Pope in Avignon in 1320 (The Declaration of Arbroath). Professor G.W.S. Barrow makes the case that he was its author. He seems also to have spent some time in Avignon effectively acting as Bruce's ambassador to the Pope.
Prior to reconstructing Bishop Cheyne's Palace at Fetternear, he would have been aware of contemporary building fashions on the Continent. It is believed that his additions were on a very palatial scale in order to rival the palace of the Bishop of St Andrews, a post which Kinninmonth had expected to be given.
Tradition states that Sir William Wallace spent a night in the Palace in 1297, and that one of the towers was named "The Wallace Tower" to commemorate this event. This is quite likely as the visit would have been just before he raised the flag of rebellion against the English, and it is not improbable that he visited all the major land-owners and magnates to assess the support which he would get. Bishop Cheyne in fact refused to support Wallace.
The house and the estate remained in the possession of the Church until it was leased to the Earl of Huntly. William Gordon, Bishop of Aberdeen, granted a lease, dated the 7th March 1549, to George, Earl of Huntly, Lord Gordon and Badenoch, Chancellor of Scotland, and Lieutenant of the north, "of the barony and shire of Fetternear, with the place of fishing and pertinents of the same, for thirteen years, paying therefor yearly seventeen pounds six shillings and eightpence usual money of Scotland".
The Leslie Family
"Soon afterwards the same William Gordon, Bishop of Aberdeen, granted a lease,22nd October 1550, to John Leslie, eighth Baron of Balquhain, of the barony and shire of Fetternear, and of the town of Bonyngtoun lying within the barony of Rayne, for nineteen years, paying therefor yearly seventeen pounds six shillings and eightpence, usual money of Scotland, together with three pounds foresaid for the fishing of the same.
William Leslie, ninth Baron of Balquhain, was Sheriff of Aberdeenshire under the Queen's Lieutenant of the North, the Earl of Huntly. In this capacity he afforded great assistance to the Bishop of Aberdeen in protecting the cathedral from the ravages of the Reformers, and he supported the bishop in his diocese when all the other bishops in Scotland were persecuted.
The bishop, William Gordon, a brother of the Earl of Huntly, as a mark of his gratitude for the services done to him in those perilous times, bestowed on William Leslie, ninth Baron of Balquhain, the barony of Fetternear, with the palace, the tower, and fortalice of the same, with the salmon-fishing in the river Don, and all other pendicles. The bishop granted to William Leslie a charter of all these lands dated the 8th June 1566.This was confirmed by a royal charter 10th May 1602, and by a Papal charter, granted 20th September 1670, by Pope Clement X. to Alexander Abercrombie, who at that time had the barony of Fetternear in wadsett.
Mr. Andrew Leslie parson of Fetternear, granted a tack of the parsonage and vicarage teinds of the lands of Fetternear to John Leslie, tenth Baron of Balquhain, for eighteen years, 22nd September 1569. Mr. Walter Gordon, parson and vicar of Fetternear, with the consent of David Cunningham, Bishop of Aberdeen, and of the Dean and Chapter of Aberdeen, granted a tack of the vicarage teinds and teind-sheaves of the lands of Fetternear, to John Leslie, tenth Baron of Balquhain, 18th May 1586.
David Cunningham, Bishop of Aberdeen, granted a charter of the lands of Fetternear and others, to John Leslie, tenth Baron of Balquhain, Sill April 1596.
Mr. Alexander Patterson, minister of Chapel of Garioch, was collated to the benefice of Fetternear, 15th August 1606, and the Bishop of Aberdeen issued a commission for resigning the Glebe of Fetternear to the said Mr. Alexander Patterson, 13th October 1620. About 1621 the parsonage of Fetternear was annexed to that of Logy Durno, on the north side of the river Urie. The church was then transferred to the ancient Chapel of the Blessed Virgin of the Garioch, from which the parish takes its present name of Chapel of Garioch."
John Leslie, eleventh Baron of Balquhain, wadsett the lands and barony of Fetternear to his brother-in-law, Sir Alexander Hay of Dalgety, and William Hay his son, for the sum of 11,000 merks, 15th June 1625. It is likely that he was forced into this course of action as a result of his religion and possible financial difficulties.
Sir Alexander Hay of Dalgety, and William Hay his son, with the consent of John Leslie, eleventh Baron of Balquhain, and Janet Innes his spouse, alienated the lands and barony of Fetternear in favour of Hector Abercrombie of Westhall, second son of Alexander Abercrombie of Birkenbog, by his wife Margaret, daughter of William Leslie ninth Baron of Balquhain, 16th November 1627.
"Patrick Forbes, Bishop of Aberdeen, with the consent of the Dean and Chapter, granted a charter containing a novo damus of the said lands, in favour of Hector Abercrombie, 2nd February 1628, which charter was confirmed under the Great Seal, 29th January 1631. Alexander Abercrombie, eldest son of Hector Abercrombie, succeeded his father in the lands of Fetternear, and as has been related, he obtained a charter from Pope Clement X. 20th September 1670, confirming the same to him".
While the barony of Fetternear was in the possession of the Abercrombies, the mansion-house was attacked by the Earl Marischal's men. "The laird of Fetternear, Hector Abercromby, appears, along with his wife, long exercising their ingenuity to keep their fidelity to the Church of Rome a secret..... A pillaging force from Aberdeen visited the Kemnay girnal once more and emptied it, and then went on to Fetternear; but being prepared only to steal, and not to fight, turned back upon finding Hector Abercromby have his gates barred and himself ready to shoot his unwelcome visitors. The fall of a soldier caused the whole foraging party to retire forth-with; but the laird, anticipating another attack, immediately packed up all he could transport, and with his family set off for the universal refuge - the King". The soldiers returned and sacked the house. The cause of this attack was none other than religious antagonism according to Spalding: "Thomas Crombie being absent in England, his place of Kemnay - one mile from Fetternear - is taken in, his girnellis broken up, and store of victuallis pairtit amongst the sol_diouris. Thus all sort of people who wold not sueir and subscrive the covenant, and contribute to the good cause, was grevouslie overrun and oppressit, without law or auchtoritie of His Majestie."
Francis Abercrombie, created Lord Glassford, succeeded his father, Alexander Abercrombie in the possession of Fetternear.
During this period William Leslie and his son, Patrick Count Leslie, fifteenth Baron of Balquhain both rose to rank and prosperity through military service against the Turks in Bohemia. Count Patrick Leslie returned as a Count of the Holy Roman Empire and regained possession of the estates in 1690.
"Francis Lord Glassford, and Dame Anna Sempill, his spouse, disponed the lands and barony of Fetternear in favour of Patrick, Count Leslie of Balquhain, and Mary Irvine his spouse, and granted a charter of the same to them, in life rent, and to their son, George Leslie, and the other heirs of entail specified, in fee, 20th August 1690. Alexander Abercrombie of Auchorsk, a member of the Birkenbog family, who rented the mansion-house of Fetternear, renounced his possession of the same in favour of Count Patrick Leslie, 23d August 1690".
George Leslie succeeded his father, Count Patrick, as sixteenth Baron of Balquhain in 1710. At this time it appeared that Fetternear was used by the Jesuits as the following extract from a letter from a Gentleman in Edinburgh to his Friend in the Country dated 1714 shows: "One George Lesly of Lalquhyne, a Popish Gentleman, Brother to Count Lesly in Germany.... the Ground of this Gentleman’s Prejudices against the Minister is, that he was lately put on the Porteous roll, by one whom he could not know for harbouring and resetting of Priests and other Popish Missionaries; But what wonder if he was, for his House at Fetterneir has been the ordinary place of Residence of the Superior of the Jesuits in Scotland for some time past, by him and his Family. The Popish Youths are recommended when they come from Abroad to his House, and ther thet receive their Directions, when they begin to act as Missionaries, and are dispersed throught the Country: At his House there is a Chappel consecrated, which is put to no other use but the Idolatrous popish Worship, and in which there is an Altar, Rich Vestments, and other Costly and Superstitious Appurtenances of their Service".
"George Leslie died in 1715, leaving two sons who were infants. His widow, the Honourable Margaret Elphinstone, who had charge of the children during their minority, shared in the bitter anti-Catholic spirit of the times, and does not seem to have been zealous for the interests of the family. She resolved to bring up her sons as Protestants, and therefore she sent away from Fetternear all the valuable chapel furniture, and all the Catholic books, and only a very few of these things were ever recovered by the family.
Her eldest son, Count James Leslie, died in Paris in 1731, while still in his minority.
He was succeeded by his brother, Count Ernest Leslie, eighteenth Baron of Balquhain, who died unmarried in 1739. His mother, who about 1720 had married Sir James Gordon of Park, had persuaded him to leave to her son, James Gordon of Cowbairdy, the lands of Boddam in Insch, part of the entailed barony of Balquhain, and all the household furniture at Fetternear. Thus the family property was dismembered, and all the family heirlooms disappeared, and Fetternear House was stripped of all the relics of former ages which are so highly valued by ancient families".
An inventory of the "House-hold Furniture, Books, Pictures, Drawings and Curious Prints etc. To be sold by Auction at the House of Fetternier on Tiesday October 12th 1742" is in existence.
On the death of Count Ernest Leslie, eighteenth baron, the succession to the Balquhain estates was disputed A long litigation ensued, and was decided in favour of Count Anthony Leslie, nineteenth Baron of Balquhain, who resided for some time at Fetternear House, but his chief residence was on his family estates in Germany.
Some years afterwards, Count Anthony's claim to the possession of the Balquhain estates was challenged by Peter Leslie Grant, on the ground that he was a Papist and an alien. Another long litigation ensued, and after many interlocutors pronounced by the Court of Session, the cause was decided in favour of Peter Leslie Grant, by a decision of the House of Lords in 1762. In consequence of this decision the mansion-house of Fetternear again changed masters. For the first few years, Peter Leslie Grant, being in the Dutch service, came over occasionally from Holland and visited Fetternear. About 1769 he retired from the service, and took up his permanent residence at Fetternear. At this period the mansion-house, though shorn of much of its splendour, was still in a tolerably good state and the gardens and wooded domains were in perfect order. But Peter Leslie Grant was much pressed for money, and he granted a lease of the whole estate, including the mansion-house and domain of Fetternear, to his agent and relation, David Orme, a lawyer in Edinburgh, for five times nineteen years, at a small annual rent.
Peter Leslie Grant died in 1775, and was succeeded by his cousin, Patrick Leslie Duguid, twenty-first Baron of Balquhain, who, with his son, John Leslie, brought an action to reduce the lease granted to David Orme. They succeeded in reducing the lease in as far as it included the mansion-house and domain of Fetternear. David Orme, anticipating this result, did all he could to dilapidate and destroy the place. He ordered all the wood to be cut down, including the ornamental timber and the superb old avenues. The fine old gardens, orchards, and shrubberies were destroyed. The two side wings of the mansion-house and the extensive stables and office-houses were allowed to go to rain, and were then pulled down, and the beams and timber used for firewood. The main building of the house was left in a wretched state.
John Leslie, twenty-second Baron of Balquhain, on recovering possession of Fetternear from David Orme in 1781, took up his residence there, having previously lived at the house of Tullos on the estate of Balquhain, near the foot of Bennachie, but he did not take control of the whole of the estate until Orme became bankrupt and he was able to buy up the leases with the help of loans from friends. It was 1813 before they were finally paid up. His means being limited as a result, he could not undertake to restore the mansion-house of Fetternear to its former grandeur. He contented himself, therefore, with repairing the dilapidations of the main building, so as to render it habitable, and he had the ruins of the two wings cleared away. Thus the features of the place were unavoidably changed, and the venerable antiquity of the mansion-house was lost in its modern shape.
In 1818 Mr Leslie repaired the house of Fetternear, and made some alterations and additions. Unfortunately, the architect employed was allowed to alter the ancient style of the mansion. The small house on one tower and the peaked roof of the other were taken down, as also were the pointed tops with the carved arms above the windows of the upper storey of the main building. These were replaced with battlements not only on the towers, but also along the whole front of the building, and thus the ancient baronial castellated appearance of the house was destroyed. To compensate in some measure for this, a handsome dining room was included in the additions made to the house.
Count Ernest Leslie, twenty-third Baron of Balquhain, did not reside much at Fetternear, but lived chiefly abroad. He was succeeded by his son, John Edward, Count Leslie, twenty-fourth Baron of Balquhain, who, on coming of age in 1841, took up his residence at Fetternear House, which he furnished in a very superior style. He built a new steading of office-houses and handsome lodges at each of the gates, and made other improvements. It is likely that the rectangular tower which appears on an 1838 estate map as abutting onto the East wing of the house was demolished and the remains cleared away.
He was succeeded by his uncle, James Michael Leslie, twenty-fifth Baron of Balquhain, who repaired the old chapel at Fetternear, and made additions to the old chancel, which was the family burial-place, and which he caused to be roofed in, and formed into a vault. He died unmarried, 2nd January 1849, and was succeeded by his brother, Colonel Charles Leslie, KH., twenty-sixth Baron of Balquhain.
The house remained as a residence of the family until it was burnt down in 1919. The fire was caused by a kitchen maid who did not wish to carry a bucket-full of hot ashes out into the wind and rain late at night, and left them under the wooden staircase in one of the towers. All those living in the house escaped without injury, except for a maid who broke her leg jumping from a first floor window, but the majority of the contents were lost, including one of the finest collections of Chippendale furniture in the U.K.
Post 1930 History.
Following the fire of 1919, the family converted and moved into the old laundry house, now Fetternear House, and never attempted to rebuild the main house. When the family went bankrupt, the estate was sold in the 1930s and the Ruins were kept as ruins.
Subsequent to the death of the owners in the late 1980s, the Executors of their estate had some stabilisation work carried out to avoid a major structural failure which would have severely prejudiced any future attempts to do any renovation or restoration work on the Ruins. The present owners inherited the Ruins in 1995.
Architectural History of the Ruins
It had been assumed that the oldest part of the house still standing is at the S.E. end of the main block, and was probably built by William Leslie in 1566 – 1570 using the stonework obtained from the old Bishop’s Palace. However as a result of the archaeological excavations and the survey by the Royal Commission it is practically certain that the original tower house of the 1560’s and the 1690’s extension are built on the foundations of, and probably include part of the walls, of the original palace. This casts doubt on the original assumption that the 1566 house was a tower house.
The main block, together with the grand staircase tower, was added by Count Patrick Leslie in 1690 - 1693, and his Coat of Arms is still displayed over the main entrance. John Leslie, inheriting essentially a ruin after the depredations of the lawyers, repaired, extended and made "improvements" to the house in 1818 - 1819, including adding the kitchen wing and the castellations. The N.E.wing was added by John Edward Leslie, 24th Baron of Balquhain in 1841 - 1844. Some time between 1838 and 1861 the tower to the NE of the 1560’s wing was demolished. This tower is shown on the 1838 estate map and also appears in a sketch entitled "Fetternear House before 1818". The authorship of this sketch is unknown. When the tower was built is also unknown.
There are no definitive records of any of the Architects employed on the various alterations to the ruins. A certain amount of circumstantial evidence is available and is detailed as follows, but further research is required to answer some of the questions.
1. 1566 Tower House.
No evidence of the Architect employed (if any) has come to light.
2. 1690 Extension by Count Patrick Leslie.
This extension is attributed to James Smith. This attribution is based on the assumption that the James Smith of Morayshire, who was admitted to the Scots College in Rome in 1671, was the James Smith who became the well-known architect. James Smith was too common a name at this time to be absolutely sure that this is so, although it is probable. If so, then there is a direct link with the Leslie family as Count Patrick’s younger brother, William Aloysius Leslie S.J., was the rector of the Scot’s College at about that time, and with the Leslie’s being staunch Catholic, Count Patrick would have tended to employ a Catholic architect.
Interestingly enough, there was another Leslie who was Rector at the Scots College from 1649 to 1642, and a Mr William Leslie who entered the College as a student in 1641, became its bursar, and remained there until his death in 1707.
3. 1818-1819 Extension by John Leslie.
An article by G.M.Fraser in the Aberdeen Weekly Journal on 19th April 1918 indicates that James Massie was the architect employed. It is unfortunate that he did not give his sources of information as Massie, who was a Roman Catholic, died in 1816, and according to Colonel Charles Leslie writing in 1869, the works were commenced in 1818. It is possible that the design may have originated with Massie, but that it was amended and carried out by Archibald Simpson who had been apprenticed to Massie, leaving him in 1810. Simpson set up in practice in Aberdeen in 1813, having worked previously for Robert Lugar in London, who was one of the first architects to introduce the castellated Gothic mansion style into Scotland.
The other strong contender is John Smith, who had been in practice in Aberdeen since 1804. With the Leslies being strong Catholics, religious preference would probably have had an effect on the choice of an architect.
4. 1841-1844 Extension by John Edward Leslie.
No records have come to light as to the identity of the Architect. Clearly whoever designed the extension was a very competent architect. It is possible that it was either Archibald Simpson or John Smith, who were the prominent architects of this period and worked on many of the large houses in the area. Once again the architect is more likely to be a Catholic, as at this time only Catholics were employed on or allowed to live on the estate.
A comparison of the 1830’s estate map and the first edition Ordnance Survey of 1869 shows that the building works carried out between these two dates were on a substantial scale, encompassing not only the building of the west wing, but also the demolition of the wing to the east of the original 1560’s house, the building of the Home Farm (currently a listed building), Netherton Farmhouse & Steading, the Laundry (the present Fetternear House) and the South Lodge (built in 1841-2). It is probable that the same architect was used on all these buildings and that they were all carried out during the same period. It is surprising that no records of works on this scale have come to light as yet, although it is likely that any Leslie records were destroyed in the fire.
Archaeological Investigations.
In the late 19th century Charles Leslie carried out some archaeological investigations into the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace which lie immediately in front of and to the south of the Ruins. Unfortunately the excavation was never published and no records pertaining to it have been discovered. It seems probable they were all destroyed when the mansion-house burnt down in 1919. However the well-known Aberdeen architect and architectural historian, William Kelly, later recorded that during the excavation Charles Leslie recovered "some perfect pieces of advanced first-pointed mouldings and tracery". In retrospect, it seems likely that these should be associated with Kinninmonth’s reconstruction of the palace in the 1330s. The detection of tracery on a Scottish castle site is unusual.
In 1995 the University of Lampeter, in Wales, approached the owners on behalf of the Scottish Episcopal Palaces Project, for permission to carry out a new archaeological investigation into the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace. The purpose was twofold. Firstly to obtain a "long term" site where archaeological students could be trained in the practical side of their course, and secondly to explore the earlier history of the site and to excavate the remains of one of the few surviving and readily accessible Episcopal Palaces. Excavations have been carried out every year from 1995 to 2002, yielding some very interesting finds dating back to medieval times, which are currently being analysed.
Ground resistivity surveys have been carried out on all the accessible surrounds to the ruins, including the park and part of the field behind them. The results of these surveys showed a number of areas of disturbed ground, which could indicate possible structural remains. Some of these could refer to the 18th century gardens that were destroyed and others could be pre-medieval. Initial investigations into the most prominent features revealed by the surveys are currently being carried out in order to obtain a comprehensive picture of the whole site.
Since 1998 local volunteers, including several complete families, have participated in the excavations and in 2000 they were joined by some 80 amateur Dutch archaeologists from the Werkgroep Archeologie "Philips van Horne". All the ground resistivity and topographical surveys have been carried out by local volunteers.
In 1995 and 1996 a survey of the ruins was carried out by the Royal Commission of Ancient & Historic Monuments of Scotland.
It has always been assumed that the 1566 house was built with the stonework obtained from the old Bishop’s Palace. However there is a considerable amount of evidence becoming available from the archaeological excavations and the survey by the Royal Commission which suggests that the original tower house of the 1560’s and the 1690’s extension are built on the foundations of, and probably include part of the walls, of the original palace. This, together with other evidence coming from the excavations would make the original palace a substantial building, possibly three stories high, judging by the width of the wall foundations. As the archaeological excavations proceed, more and more indications are appearing that the scale of the palace is considerably greater than previously thought, and that it could rank as one of the largest buildings (apart from castles) found from that period in Scotland.
A sketch presumed to have been prepared at the time of the building of the 1842 wing gave details of a large ditch which had been encountered when the 1818 wing was built. It ran centrally beneath it. Archaeological excavations in 2000 revealed that this ditch ran due east and appeared to curve round under the East wing of the ruins. Excavations in 2002 revealed traces of it to the East of the ruins, with part of the walls constructed in it. Clearly this ditch predates the palace and could well have been a motte and bailey type of fortification.
Excavations in 2001 in the field to the North of the ruins uncovered traces of Bronze Age workings. Discoveries included postholes, a hearth with calcinated bones, and some sherds of pottery. Preliminary dating of these gave a date of 1600 to 1800 BC.
The ruins have been listed Grade B and regarded as an Ancient Monument for a considerable time. With the additional information being discovered during the excavations and the survey, the ever increasing historical importance of the site has been recognised and in 1998 Historic Scotland (Ancient Monuments) put forward a proposal to Schedule them as an Ancient Monument. This proposal is being held in abeyance until the long term future of the site is established.
The Gardens and Grounds
"The mansion-house of Fetternear is beautifully situated in a finely-wooded domain, at a short distance from the bank of the river Don, commanding a view of the river and of the surrounding country. From it are seen in the distance the hill of Corrennie, the hill of Fair, the hill of Bennachie, and others, which form a picturesque boundary to the landscape".
In 1690 Count Patrick Leslie moved from the castle of Balquhain to Fetternear House, which henceforth became the chief seat of the family. At this period the approach to Fetternear House from the south was through a magnificent avenue of three rows of trees on each side.
In 1762 Peter Leslie Grant, after a long and protracted legal battle, obtained possession of the Estate from Count Anthony Leslie. For the first few years, Peter Leslie Grant visited Fetternear occasionally. About 1769 he retired from the Dutch service, and took up his permanent residence at Fetternear. At this period the mansion-house, though shorn of much of its splendour, was still in a tolerably good state and the gardens and wooded domains were in perfect order. But Peter Leslie Grant was much pressed for money, and he granted a lease of the whole estate to his agent and relation, David Orme, a lawyer in Edinburgh.
Peter Leslie Grant died in 1775. On his death the estates passed to his cousin and heir, Patrick Leslie Duguid, who, with his son and heir John Leslie, brought an action against David Orme to reduce the lease. They succeeded in reducing the lease in as far as it included the mansion-house and domain of Fetternear.
David Orme, anticipating this result, did all he could to dilapidate and destroy the place. He ordered all the wood to be cut down, including the ornamental timber and the superb old avenues. Some of the neighbouring gentlemen, anxious to save the ornamental trees from destruction and to preserve them for the family, bought them and left them standing. David Orme insisted that this was a breach of bargain, as the trees were sold under condition of being cut down. He repossessed himself of them, and sold them again for the merest trifle. The fine old gardens, orchards, and shrubberies were destroyed.
John Leslie recovered the right to live at Fetternear in 1781, he did not take control of the estate until Orme became bankrupt and he was able to buy up the leases with the help of loans from friends. It was 1813 before they were finally paid up.
The domain, which had been long neglected, or had been broken up into fields and exhausted by over-cropping, was put under the best system of modern husbandry to restore it to its pristine vigour, and was then laid down in grass, which at the present time is the finest in that part of the country. Extensive ranges of hills behind the mansion-house were planted, and clumps of trees were interspersed in the domain, so as in some measure to retrieve the desolation which had been made. Extensive replanting of the avenues and woodlands now took place, shelterbelts on the hills behind and to the north of the mansion were planted and clumps of trees were interspersed throughout the estate.
A new approach from the north-east, or Inverurie side, was made through the woods along the bank of the river Don, and it now forms a beautiful drive of two miles up to
the house.
John Edward, Count Leslie, twenty-fourth Baron of Balquhain took up his residence at Fetternear House in 1841. He built a new steading of office-houses and handsome lodges at each of the gates, and made other improvements. Further replanting of avenues and woodland was carried out during the late 19th century.
A. Smith, in his " A New History of Aberdeenshire" in 1875 said "The House of Fetternear has been the residence of the Leslies of Balquhain, and by that family it has been enlarged, so that it is now one of the largest and finest mansions on the banks of the Don. The private grounds extend for about two miles along the river, and they are well sheltered by extensive and ornamental plantations, on the north and west..."
After the fire of 1919 no further alterations, agricultural 'improvements' or planting of trees were made to the estate. The woodlands, mainly alongside the river Don, which were cut down by Canadian lumberjacks during the Great War were never replanted but were allowed to revert to birch. Some "commercial" planting of conifers was carried out after the Second World War, mainly at the Kemnay entrance and in Fountain Wood. Replanting of specimen trees has been and is being carried out by the present owners, mainly in the parkland around the ruins.
Evidence of rig-and-furrow survives in a number of places on the estate, which also includes some interesting examples of eighteenth and nineteenth century estate architecture. As a result the present landscape is essentially a 19th century one.
The estate map of the 1830’s and the first two editions of the Ordnance Survey maps show the formal gardens lying to the East of the house only, with the walled garden about 300 yards to the North of the house.
Access to the House
William Roy’s Military Survey of Scotland (1747 - 1755) gives few recognisable details of Fetternear as it is at present, and it is possible to reconcile his map with the "approach to the house in 1690 from the south being along a magnificent avenue of three rows of trees on each side". This would infer that the "white bridge" dates from this period. The location of the Mains of Fetternear is a mystery.
An estate map of the early 1830’s gives a very detailed picture with accesses from Inverurie via Burnhervie and from Kemnay over the "white bridge". The present "black bridge" is not shown.
The first edition of the Ordnance Survey of 1866-7 shows an approach over the Bridge of Kemnay and past the present south lodge, turning to the north east over the present "black bridge", and swinging round to the south of the gardens to emerge at the side of the house. There are no signs of the avenue south of the present "white bridge" nor of any approach via Netherton, although the "white bridge" is shown. Whether the old approach ran from the Garmondend Ford, beside the old, and now disappeared, ford lodge, alongside the river Don and over the "white bridge", or whether it followed another route, can only be answered by a detailed study of earlier maps and plans.
The second edition of the Ordnance Survey of 1901 shows the same approach over the Bridge of Kemnay, together with a further one from Netherton and the avenue south of the "white bridge" leading to the ford lodge.
The Fetternear Trust Ltd.